Sewing

A Summer of Bags

Upcoming projects

This summer I’ll be starting off with 3 bags in 2 patterns: a Blue Calla Speedwell Sling Bag at 110% of the original pattern size & two Swoon Sydney Crossbody Bags – 1 for my mom & the other probably for me.

110% self-created pattern pieces for the rectangular/square pieces for the Speedwell-

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Speedwell (pegasus for the front, bottom fabric for the rest of the exterior)-IMG_1791

Mom’s Sydney (left for the exterior, black for the exterior accent, speckles for lining)-IMG_1789

My Sydney (top right for the exterior, teal for the lining, textured fabric for the accent)- IMG_1790

Stay tuned!

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Sewing

Completed Doctor Who Duffle #2

Managed to finish the second Swoon Dallas duffle in just 2 days (everything was already cut & fused, so it was just sewing and pinning that I had left), so I got to take both bags on my latest trip.

I did not add additional pockets on the second duffle.

I also did not size down the lining, I just followed the instructions to use a larger seam allowance and trim the excess. This went much more smoothly than my first bag.

I reinforced all my webbing at the top with zig zag stitch and a scrap of Pellon Peltex 71F.

DSCN0073DSCN0072I also wanted to share some size info for the bag when it is full that I didn’t detail in my completed duffle #1 post.

Duffle #1 (red straps) – medium height, small length.

  • 17″ long
  • 10″ tall
  • 10″ deep

Fits 3 bath towels and 2 hand towels comfortably. Fits under airplane seat as personal item as long as it isn’t stuffed to total capacity with inflexible items (I usually keep it pretty full but I have a couple soft items in the bag).

Duffle #2 (black straps) – large height, medium length.

  • 21″ long
  • 12″ tall
  • 12″ deep

Fits 4 bath towels and 1 bath mat comfortably. This is the maximum linear inch size to qualify as carry on luggage. I find this a much easier bag to carry than my roller bag because the frame of the roller bag adds so much weight, and I always struggle getting that roller bag in and out of the overhead bins. I had absolutely no problem with lifting the duffle.

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Sewing

Completed Doctor Who Duffle #1

Finished. Torn Straps. Revisions.

So, I finished my bag before my trip last fall, but I didn’t have time to write up a post. Then I traveled & the handles tore halfway off the bag on one side. I decided that I would wait to post until after I had fixed and reinforced the straps so that I could share with you all everything I did to modify the bag.

I had a tip to use a piece of Peltex and a zig zag stitch at the top of each handle:

Since I had to practically disassemble the entire bag to properly fix the handles, I also redid the zipper because I was having problems with it catching the fabric.

I followed the instructions for where to stitch and where to baste pre-zipper installation.

Then I pressed it open instead of pinning the zipper and took out the basting.

Then I pinned the zipper as shown below.

Please note: the “X” of pins at each end were temporary to keep everything from moving around until I was completely done pinning.

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As you can see it’s now an exposed zipper.

After stitching, I trimmed the ends of the zipper, making certain that my zipper pull was within the confines of the bag. I also did a zig zag stitch across the end to reinforce it. Don’t worry, the zig zag stitch ends up hidden once you sew your bag ends on.

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I sewed the ends back on then repeated the zipper pinning with my drop in lining. Because my machine is not super fancy, I have a hard time getting into tight spaces for sewing. I machine sewed the bulk of the top stitching, but I left long thread tails on each end and hand sewed up to each end of the bag where my machine wouldn’t reach.

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And voilà! A much sturdier bag than before.

I also want to give feedback in the tip I mentioned on my last post: “I saw a tip on the Swoon FB group to cut your lining pieces 2.5% smaller (about 1/4″ all the way around) so that the lining sits better inside the exterior.”

I’m not sure if I made some sort of error and shrank the body pieces a different amount than the ends, but I had massive trouble getting them to fit together after following this tip.

It all worked out in the end, but I would recommend just cutting according to instructions and sewing with a slightly larger seam allowance instead, if you are concerned with fit. The excess fabric can always be trimmed down after sewing.

Here’s the finished bag (stuffed with 3 large bath towels to give it shape, but could have fit another):

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Oh, also, I double folded the ends on the adjustable strap, so that it has a fold edge instead of a raw edge showing.

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All-in-all the pattern was great! Very clear instructions with enough diagrams and illustrations. The layout was well-ordered, and didn’t leave out any needed supplies. I think all the changes / tips I followed had more to do with personal taste than any deficiency in the pattern.

The only exception I would say is that the handles definitely need to be reinforced at the top if you are not using rivets or grommets (possibly not a problem with the heavier duty fabric / thread options). Swoon Dallas 4.75 stars!

4.75-Stars

Sewing

Quilted Tote-torial: Part 3.

Part 3: Sewing bag body & finishing

Sew interior.

Read carefully before sewing.

Trace and cut 2.5″ squares from the two bottom corners of each lining and exterior panel.

Center pocket layers across bottom edge of one lining panel, right sides together. Place second lining panel on top, right side facing in and pin all layers. Sew across bottom using 1/2″ seam, starting and stopping 1/2″ in from edges.

This will allow you to fold back the edge to sew the sides as follows:

Fold down side of square cutout to line up with the bottom edge of the bag lining & finger press. Line up top of square cutout to line up with the side of the cutout and the bottom edge of the bag lining & finger press. Pin. Repeat with second corner. Flip over and repeat on the other side.

Pin sides as shown below. Green pins indicate pinned corners. Sew using 1/2″ seam, stopping 1/2″ in from bottom edge.

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Pin & sew corners using 1/2″ seam.

Turn right side out as shown below.

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Sew exterior.

Pin as shown below. This is where you will add your #10 key loops as well. Pin your key loops between the orange and white pins interior loops or between the green and orange pins for exterior loops. Shown below is one key loop pinned for an exterior loop.

Note: Now is also the time to add any optional clips or key rings to your key loop.

 

I made a mistake and pinned both of mine for the exterior instead of the interior and am debating taking apart the bag to fix it.

Use a different color pin to mark the center 5-6″ of the bottom edge, as you will not be sewing this portion. Sew sides and approximately 3.5″ on each end of the bottom edge using 1/2″ seam.File_002(3)

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Pin & sew corners using 1/2″ seam.

Sew interior & exterior together.

There are 2 ways to do this. I found it most comfortable to have the exterior right side out and the interior inside out with the exterior in one side of the divider like this:

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I pinned one side, and sewed it using 1/2″ seam, then put the exterior into the other side of the divider and repeated the process.

You can also have the interior right side out with the exterior inside out around it like this:

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Either way, pin & sew using 1/2″ seam making sure both straps are inside the bag and not caught in the seam.

This is what you’ll have when you are done.

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Finishing.

Turn bag right side out through the bottom of the exterior.

Pin and sew bottom opening shut using 1/8″ seam.

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Grab bag by handles and straighten so that exterior and interior are fully seated together. Press and topstitch 1/4″ seam around top edge of bag. Trim or weave in any remaining threads.

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And you are finished!

Sewing

Quilted Tote-torial: Part 2.

Part 2: Quilting panels, sewing straps and zipper.

Quilt Main Exterior Panels.

Because you are quilting without a backing, it is not essential to use a walking foot unless you prefer that. Personally, I use a 1/4″ piecing foot for my straight line quilting on bags, and I maybe pull out the FMQ foot if I decide to do a more interesting design.

It is VERY important that you use a cotton batting if you are machine quilting here. I have found that poly batting without a backing will get snagged on the sewing machine quite frequently. At best, you’ll need to unscrew the panel and clean out your machine after each panel. At worst, you could damage your machine or your fabric.

For my panels I used straight line quilting for the entire thing. I simply drew diagonal lines with a washable fabric chalk pencil & fabric ruler before I began and buried and knotted any extra ends when I was done.

After quilting, trim any excess batting and thread from edges.

quilted

Sew straps.

Sew fabric loops #10 closed along pressed edges 1/8″ seam. Repeat with #9 for regular straps.

regular strap sewn

Wide straps: Sew along pinned edge 1/4″ seam. Press seam open. Turn right side out and press so that seam runs down center back of each strap. If using longer straps for knot detail, tie a single knot centered on strap.

For both types of strap, take one #4 piece and one strap and pin strap 3.5″ in from each edge as shown. Take another #4 piece and place face down, removing pins one at a time and using them to pin through entire fabric sandwich. Repeat with second strap. Sew using 1/2″ seam.

sew strap1

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sew strap 3Sew straps to quilted panels as shown below using 1/4″ seam.

strap outer pinned

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Repeat for second quilted piece and strap.

Install Pocket Zipper.

Unzip zipper halfway, then trim to 12″ (make sure your zip toggle is inside of the margins before cutting). Line up two #11 pieces covering 3/4″ on each end of the zipper wrong sides together as pictured below. Pin and sew using 1/8″ seam.

Take one pocket lining and lay it face up. Place zipper face up, lined up with the top edge. Cover with one pocket exterior and pin. Repeat for other side.

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zip7

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Sew using a 1/4″ seam. You can hand sew, use a zipper foot, or use a 1/4″ piecing foot. (For the last option simply unzip the zipper, sew to the halfway mark, zip the zipper all the way, and resume sewing.)

Repeat on other side of zipper for second pocket lining and exterior.

Press open, trim edges & topstitch using 1/8″ seam.

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…to be continued…

Sewing

Quilted Tote-torial: Part 1.

Part 1: Supplies, Cutting, & Prepping. Minimal Sewing.

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Supplies.

  • Fabric Option 1 (3 color tote):
    • Fabric A (main exterior) – 1/2 yard quilting cotton (allows for directional print).
    • Fabric B (base exterior, contrast accent interior & straps) – 1/2 yard quilting cotton.
    • Fabric C (contrast accent exterior & lining) – 1 yard quilting cotton.
  • Fabric Option 2 (4 color tote):
    • Fabric A (main exterior) – 1/2 yard quilting cotton (allows for directional print).
    • Fabric B (base exterior) – 1/4 yard or 1 fat quarter quilting cotton (allows for directional print).
    • Fabric C (contrast accent) – 1/4 yard or 1 fat quarter quilting cotton (allows for directional print).
    • Fabric D (lining & straps) – 1 yard quilting cotton.
  • Pellon SF101 fusible interfacing – 3 yards (20″ width).
  • The Warm Company Warm And Natural Cotton Needled Batting 34″x45″ (NOTE: this is enough for two quilted totes). Or 2 large cotton batting scraps that can be cut down to 17″x17″. NOTE: Do not use polyester batting for this project. This will be discussed more in depth in Part 2 of the tutorial.
  • A YKK® 12 inch (or longer) #3 nylon coil closed bottom zipper – or other brand. Coats & Clark makes a comparable zipper.
  • Optional: any purse tack you wish to add to your key loops such as the 16x30mm swivel lobster clasp that I added on my second bag.
  • Coordinating thread.
  • Tools – Every sewist has tools that they prefer, but these are the tools (besides my sewing machine & iron) that I used during this project:

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Start by pressing all of your fabrics.

Cutting.

NOTE: Fabrics listed are for Option 1. For Option 2 fabrics cut (#1, #5, #10) from Fabric A, (#3) from Fabric B, (#2, #4) from Fabric C, (#6, #7, #8, #9, #11) from Fabric D. After cutting, pieces will be referred to by their numbers so that the instructions are interchangeable for either Option 1 or 2.

  1. (2) 17″ x 10″ (Fabric A)
  2. (2) 17″ x 2″ (Fabric C)
  3. (2) 17″ x 6″ (Fabric B)
  4. (4) 17″ x 2″ (Fabric B)
  5. (2) 12″ x 8″ (Fabric A)
  6. (2) 12″ x 6.5″ (Fabric B)
  7. (2) 12″ x 14″ (Fabric C)
  8. (2) 17″ x 17″ (Fabric C)
  9. (2) 5″ x 34″ (Fabric C) add 2″ on length for knot detail on wide straps
  10. (2) 2″ x 5″ (Fabric A)
  11. (4) 2″ x 1.5″ (Fabric A)

From your interfacing cut the following pieces. Instructions given are to ensure maximum usage from yardage. If you cut pieces in a different order, you may run out/need more.

  1. Make (4) 17″ cuts. Set aside remaining yardage. Trim these cuts to (4) 17″ x 17″ squares.
  2. Trim leftover 17″ x 3″ strips to (4) 17″ x 2″ rectangles.
  3. Make a 34″ cut. Cut (2) 5″ x 34″ strips from this.
  4. Cut 10″ strip into (2) 10″ x 14″ rectangles. From remaining 20″ x 6″ cut (2) 2″ x 14″ strips

From batting: cut (2) 17″ x 17″ squares.

And this is what you should have when you are finished:

Piecing exterior panels & exterior pocket panels.

Main Panel: Using 1/4″ seam, line up #1 and #2 with right sides together and sew. If using a directional print for main fabric, be sure that #2 is lined up along the bottom of the print. Do the same for #2 and #3. Repeat for second panel.

Pocket Panel: Using 1/4″ seam, piece #5 to #6 in the same manner. Repeat for second panel.

Press seams open on all panels.

pieced

Fusing interfacing.

For this step you will need an ironing board, an iron, and a pressing cloth.

Fuse interfacing to the following pieces according to the instructions that come with your interfacing: Main panel, Pocket panel, #4, #8, and #9. For the pocket panel use the 10″x 14″ interfacing rectangles alongside the 2″ x 14″ strips.

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After fusing your interfacing, trim any little bits of interfacing along the edges and corners that stick out past your fabric. Flip your fabric back to right side up and press with very light steam from the center out to the edges to get rid of any wrinkles or bubbles.

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Finishing prep.

Straps, key loops, zipper ends, and pin basting.

Pin baste exterior bag panels to cotton batting.

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Regular straps: Press each strap #9 in half the long way, then press in sides to meet the line created by original pressing. Press in half again (pictured: straps from draft 1 of this design).

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Wide straps: Pin each strap #9 inside out along the long edge.

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Repeat method for Regular straps with key loops #10.

Press edges on zipper ends #11 in 1/2″ along one 1 1/2″ edge.

pressed 1

…to be continued…